Truffle Country
After leaving Slovenia, we stopped for the night in the medieval town of Motovun, Croatia. Motovun is located within the region of Istria, about 5 hours from Dalmatia, and our final destination of Split.
About 15 minutes outside of Motovun, we stopped at Karlić Tartufi, ran by third generation truffle hunters, the Karlić family. We (Vannah included, of course) joined them in the forest to learn about truffles, the tradition of truffle hunting, and go with them and their dogs to find some for ourselves.
A few facts about truffles that you may not know:
Traditionally, truffles are hunted with trained dogs rather than pigs. They are preferred because they are easier to control, more effective, and can be trained to not eat them once finding one.
White truffles are the more intense flavored truffle, as well as more expensive. Black, on the other hand are also delicious, but if you sniff a newly foraged truffle, don’t be surprised if you smell nothing at all. The black truffle’s aroma and flavor comes out when cooking in it butter or oil.
After the “hunt”, we went to their tasting room and enjoyed a variety of bites featuring truffles, as well as some local wines. Vannah was treated to cookies - made for dogs - containing truffles. These are used as a reward for the dogs once they find a truffle and successfully hand them over. No, Vannah did not find any herself. In order to let their dogs “do their job”, we unfortunately had to keep her on the leash.
Afterward, we went to Motovun and stayed at Villa Borgo, a former traditional stone house now serving as a bed and breakfast. Motovun is a picturesque medieval town perched atop a hill in the heart of the Istrian Peninsula. It has very narrow, winding cobblestone streets that spiral up the hill, creating a maze of truffle and olive oil shops, taverns, and the local’s homes. The buildings are made of weathered stone, with terracotta-tiled roofs that add a warm, rustic charm. Scattered throughout, you will see grapevines and lavender, while cherry trees surround the village walls—all prominent plants of Croatia.
The site of present-day Motovun was originally fortified by the Celts and Illyrians, with the village's name deriving from the Celtic word "Montona," meaning "a town in the hills." By the 13th century, Motovun came under the control of the Republic of Venice, significantly influencing its architecture and culture. One of the town's most notable features is the Venetian symbols, like the Lion of St. Mark, which we saw carved on the gates and other structures. After being under Italian rule, Motovun became part of Yugoslavia, and later Croatia after its dissolution.
The Croatian region of Istria as a whole is known as the truffle capital, particularly famous for its white and black truffles. In fact, truffle hunting and olive oil production are the primary sources of income for most residents of Motovun.
