Split’s Sunlit Splendor
We arrived in Split, Croatia, on July 30th. Split is located on the central Dalmatian coast, along the eastern shore of the Adriatic Sea. It's the largest city in the region, about five hours south of the capital, Zagreb, and 2.5 hours northwest of Dubrovnik. Split also serves as the gateway to many of Croatia's islands—if you’re planning to go island hopping in the Adriatic, you’ll likely fly into Split and embark on a boat from there.
We chose Split because we wanted to spend time in the sea and explore the islands, but we also needed a dependable internet connection. So, we booked an Airbnb in the old town, just a 10-minute walk from Diocletian’s Palace and the Riva, and 20 minutes from our new favorite swim spots.
You might recognize Split from the popular TV show, Game of Thrones. Diocletian’s Palace was used to depict the city of Meereen, particularly the underground passages where Daenerys Targaryen keeps her dragons. Croatia is a popular vacation spot for Europeans, and it's slowly gaining fame around the world. Here, we mostly encounter Italians, French, Germans, and the English, often spending just the weekend—it’s much closer than Greece, and just as beautiful.
Diocletian’s Palace:
Diocletian’s Palace is a massive, ancient Roman palace located in the heart of old town. Built around the 4th century AD for the Roman Emperor Diocletian, it served as both a luxurious residence and a military fortress. The palace complex spans over 30,000 square meters and is a blend of Roman architecture, including grand arches, marble columns, and intricate carvings. Today, the palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and forms the historic core of Split, with its well-preserved structures housing shops, restaurants, gyro stands galore, and residences, seamlessly blending ancient and modern life. It’s absolutely wild to walk through the remains of this ancient palace literally every day as we get coffee, visit the farmer’s market, and take Vannah for her daily walks. It’s most beautiful at dawn and dusk with the light pours through and glows golden amongst the Roman columns and maze-like corridors of white stone.
The Riva:
"Riva" is Italian for "shore" or "waterfront," and in Split, it refers to the picturesque promenade along the harbor. It’s likely the first image you’ll find when searching for Split online. When cruise ships arrive, their passengers spill onto the Riva, turning it into a bustling hub.
*The images below were shot at 6:30am, just minutes after sunrise before the streets filled with people and vendors.
At the opposite end of where the ferries dock, you will often find a group of elderly Croats, singing old Croatian songs, a few nights a week. It’s pretty great to see/hear.
While the street is lined with outdoor restaurants and palm trees, I wouldn’t recommend dining here—the food is overpriced and mediocre. The Riva serves as the boundary between the "old town" (+ Diocletian’s Palace) and the sea. Despite the tourist traps, it’s undeniably beautiful. The water is a deep blue, dotted with sailboats and yachts ready to take you on a day trip to the islands. Benches along the Riva offer the perfect spot to sit and soak in the view.
There is one exception: "The Dock Bar." We always stop by, thanks to Vannah’s best friends who run the place. We can't pass without saying hi.
The Adriatic:
Split has public beaches, but the real gems are the little rocky hamlets that dip into the sea. Sometimes you'll find a ladder to help you into the water, but often it’s just you and the rocks. People sunbathe on these natural platforms before climbing down for a swim.
Rule #1: Wear water shoes (or water socks). Croatia’s beaches are made of pebbles and jagged rocks, not sand. And beware of sea urchins—while the shoes won’t completely protect you from them, they’ll save you from sharp rocks.
This might not sound like the setting for some of the world’s most beautiful beaches, but trust me, the crystal clear water with turquoise hues and Mediterranean sun will convince you otherwise. Also, the Adriatic is known for how pure and clean it is. The locals say that if you have an ailment - any ailment - go to the sea. That is where we’ll be until the arrival of “Bora”, the winds from the north, and then we will move on to Zagreb.
