The Island of Hvar
Hvar is an island of contrasts—a curious mix of backpackers and superyachts. Often branded as the bougie destination of the Adriatic, I can’t say I feel that vibe at all. Perhaps it's because I arrive via ferry rather than yacht. Last year, I explored Hvar with friends, indulging in the luxurious ambiance of Hotel Adriana, perched right at the edge of Old Town’s port. This year, we opted for an Airbnb along the water in Milna—both experiences were stunning, yet entirely different.
Old Town Hvar
Milna
The Old Town area of Hvar is the postcard image you'll find everywhere, boasting one of the island's two ports. Here, the yachts bob lazily in the water, waiting for their owners to emerge. Perched above the town is the ancient stone fortress known as Fortica, or Španjola Fortress. The ascent takes about thirty minutes, a seemingly easy trek that becomes a sweat-soaked endeavor in the August heat. But trust me, the view from the top is nothing short of breathtaking.
Like its neighboring Dalmatian islands, Hvar is famous for its vineyards and olive groves, but it also boasts expansive lavender fields that perfume the air. Surrounding the main island are smaller islets, where visitors flock to chic beach clubs via water taxi. We stumbled into Carpe Diem beach club one day with Vannah. While it was an experience, entry fees were steep, with bed rentals and cocktails priced like they are in Manhattan. We left feeling that the natural rocky inlets along the main island, paired with local bars and restaurants, offer a far superior experience.
Hvar is dotted with quaint villages, one being Malo Grablje. The people living in this village were winemakers and olive growers. In 1950s, there was a vine disease that wiped out much of their grape crops, and the people were forced to leave the village with no opportunity to make money. I read that most moved to Milna (where we stayed, about 15 minutes drive). It since has slowly been taken back by nature, with the exception of one stone house. Here, a local family cooks a traditional Dalmatian dinner, Peka style. We didn’t make it this year, but I dined there last summer and can vouch for its merits (see my old instagram video of it here).
Another gem we explored is Stari Grad, which literally translates to “Old Town” and stands as one of the oldest towns in Europe. Founded by Greek settlers from Paros in 384 BC, it was originally named Faros or Pharos. The land here is fertile, perfect for growing olives, lavender, and grapes. The ancient Greeks mapped out the agricultural Stari Grad Plain, dividing it into right angles and standard-size lots—a remarkable feat of organization that still stands today as one of the best-preserved examples of ancient Greek agriculture.
For my mom’s birthday, I took her to Poje, a culinary experience on a UNESCO-protected family estate in Stari Grad. Our host, Kornelija, guided us through making traditional Croatian salsa (think of it as their version of marinara), served in various forms, including with octopus and fried polenta cakes. She introduced us to her garden, picking fresh ingredients for our lunch, and shared the history of Stari Grad. We sampled her homemade Rakija (Croatian fruit brandy), olive oil, goat cheese, and wines from her neighbor. Kornelija even baked us an olive oil birthday cake. We’ve planned to meet again in Zagreb come December. This is just one of the many memorable experiences we’ve enjoyed during our time here, all thanks to the hospitable, generous, and authentic people we’ve met along the way.
Hvar is brimming with activities that could easily fill an entire blog dedicated to the island. Unfortunately, many places will close at the end of the month until spring. Luckily, I’ve made some connections, and our experiences have evolved from typical tourist fare to intimate gatherings with friends we've met along the way. This weekend, we’ll be grilling on the rooftop patio of a friend's apartment, so the fact that my favorite restaurant just closed for the season isn’t a big deal after all.