Adriatic Heritage Glamping on Šolta
Pomalo is a word frequently heard in Dalmatia, the region of Croatia along the eastern shore of the Adriatic. It means to slow down, take it easy, and not stress. My friend Mila first introduced me to the term, but it immediately reminded me of something our friend Ema, the owner of our apartment in Split, told me the first night we had dinner together: "You will learn to relax in Croatia." Pomalo is more than just a word—it's a way of life, a state of mind. It’s a concept that feels similar to "island time" in the Caribbean.
A couple weeks ago, we embraced “Pomalo” in a (quite luxurious) glamping-style tent in the middle of an olive grove, on the island of Šolta. How did we end up there? Before leaving the U.S., I sought advice from Expat in Croatia about the visa process, and ultimately hired one of their in-network lawyers to help us navigate the beauracy. Cam, from Expat in Croatia, introduced me to her colleague, Tamara. After phone calls and a meeting over coffee, she invited us to stay at her property. So Michael, Vannah, and I packed an overnight bag and a cooler of food (and wine) and hopped on the ferry to Šolta.
Šolta is just nine nautical miles from Split—a quick, one-hour ferry ride—and unlike the nearby islands we’ve explored, it feels untouched by the usual tourist circuit. With a population of only 1,700, everything I know about Šolta, I owe to Tamara. Her family has lived here for generations, in a place where eco-tourism reigns. You won’t find resorts here; instead, it’s glamping tents, farm-to-table dining, and family-owned spots that preserve Šolta’s unique, unspoiled charm.
Stepping onto the island is like traveling through time. Most of the terrain is wild, the coastline peppered with hidden coves and peaceful beaches, many accessible only by boat. Locals take fierce pride in this, which is why Tamara built just two tents in her grove—not a campground, but a place to pass on the heritage of Šolta, to give guests something authentic, something you can’t buy anywhere else. Life here revolves around olive oil, honey, and wine—a trio that defines the Dalmatian way.
Tamara’s glamping tents feel more like houses, complete with a kitchen, dining area, a bedroom with a king bed, and bunk beds, though the tent frames are all canvas. There’s a porch with a swing and hot tub, a picnic area, gas grill, hammock, and two electric bikes for winding through olive groves and vineyards along a gravel road leading to the island’s edge.
During our stay, the day was hot, the night, quite brisk, making for the best sleep I’ve had since May, back when I was still in my big plush American bed. At sunset, we took the bikes down to the coast, Vannah running alongside, to catch one of the most stunning sunsets we’d seen—layers of tiny islands dotting a sea scattered with sailboats. No idea where the road would take us, or what view we’d find, so I left my camera behind. The next day, we returned, my camera ready.
Šolta was unlike any other Croatian experience we’ve had. I’m already planning a trip back to see Tamara and her friend Sandra, who’ve offered to introduce me to a beekeeper and a few other locals. There’s a warmth here, a pride that runs deep. In Dalmatia, people want to tell you their story, invite you to dinner, introduce you to their friends—almost like they’re passing on pieces of themselves.
Out here, pomalo doesn’t just mean slowing down. It’s knowing that sometimes the best stories are the ones you don’t see coming.
Side note: Tamara’s daughter participated in a foreign exchange student program since elementary school age. Guess where… Atlanta.
Click on the settings wheel and choose 1080p to view in HD. It makes all the difference :-)