Christmas in Vienna
Christmas this year was unlike any other—no family, no friends, no tree, no gifts, and no big celebrations. While we’d been enjoying Zagreb and its Christmas markets (hitting them daily on walks with Vannah), I suggested a change of scenery for Christmas Day. The idea? A road trip to a city known for its festive spirit, staying at a hotel equipped with—yes—a Christmas tree.
In my research on cities with the "Best Christmas Markets in the World," three names kept surfacing: Nuremberg, Vienna, and Strasbourg. Vienna was only a four-hour drive from Zagreb, so we rented a car and headed there on December 23rd.
We stayed at Hotel Beethoven, a charming boutique spot that welcomed Vannah. Each floor had a theme tied to Vienna’s history, and on Christmas, they hosted an intimate concert featuring works by Beethoven, Mozart, and other Viennese legends. Vannah, being Vannah, required Michael to escort her out a few times. Surprise, surprise.
If we had to choose based on architecture alone, we have decided that Vienna is, hands down, the most beautiful city we’ve seen this year. Its architecture is jaw-dropping. St. Stephen’s Cathedral is a showstopper, its Gothic grandeur will leave you speechless as you turn onto Stephansplatz. I’ve visited countless cathedrals across Europe, but this one still managed to floor me. We took turns stepping inside early Christmas morning before the lines started forming.
Every corner of Vienna looks like a postcard—grand squares, pristine streets, and not a speck of graffiti (a refreshing change from Italy and Croatia).
During the holidays, Vienna boasts over 20 Christmas markets scattered across the city. We visited the major ones at Rathausplatz, Karlsplatz, Stephansplatz, and Maria-Theresien-Platz. These markets feel more traditional, like Nuremberg’s, with rows of wooden stalls selling handmade ornaments, holiday decor, candles, cheeses, meats, and wine. Kids could enjoy carousels and petting zoos, while we dove into latke-like potato cakes, sausages, and plenty of Glühwein and Viennese punches spiked with apple and rum.
On Christmas, which was also the first night of Hanukkah, we had dinner at Gösser Bierklinik, one of the oldest beer taverns in Vienna (est. 1683). It felt like dining in someone’s cozy old house, with each room a snug little dining area. Perfect for us—and for Vannah.
