Advent in Zagreb
We arrived by car on December first. It was a four hour drive from Split, but feels like a completely different universe, in my opinion. Perhaps because we arrived on the first day of Advent, and this city is famous for it this time of year.
Advent in Zagreb is repeatedly voted among the best in Europe, and for good reason. The city hums with life, draped in twinkling lights and the scent of mulled wine wafting through the frosty air. Stalls line the streets, selling handmade crafts, roasted chestnuts, and countless varieties of sausages sizzling on open grills. Locals and tourists skate in circles at King Tomislav Square, while Zrinjevac Park glows like a snow globe come to life.
It’s festive, chaotic, and irresistibly immersive. Every corner of the city embraces the Christmas season, from sprawling markets to cozy corner cafés. In fact, I was asked to capture some images of the city for a Travel + Leisure article, but I was instructed to avoid including any holiday decor. It was near impossible and I’m not sure if the little I was able to get for them will work… we will see!
If I had to describe Zagreb in comparison to the other cities I’ve discussed here, I’d say this: Zagreb feels like a borough of Manhattan, but with a distinctly European charm. Instead of steel and glass skyscrapers, you’ll find ornate stone buildings, some still bearing the scars of the war over 30 years ago. It’s a little Brooklyn, a little Vienna, and entirely its own.
Time is flying and it doesn’t help that I feel we’ve skipped right over Autumn and went full steam into winter. When we packed for this year abroad, we brought two suitcases each (not counting our camera/computer bags). Those bags included the lightest, most breathable summer clothing, swimsuits, and sandals. Mike took everything back to the US when he went home for Thanksgiving. I was left here with a couple items that my mom brought the month prior. I wore the same three outfits on repeat that week until he returned with all heavy winter sweaters, snow boots, hats and scarves. That will be our reality until we return to the states this spring. Time to bundle up!
Croatian Sarma is a traditional dish made of cabbage leaves stuffed with a mixture of ground meat (often pork and beef), rice, and spices. The stuffed cabbage rolls are simmered slowly in a flavorful tomato-based sauce, often with smoked meat or bacon added for extra depth. It is served over a bowl of hot sauerkraut.