Plitvice Lakes National Park

I’d never heard of Plitvice Lakes National Park until Travel + Leisure Magazine reached out, asking if I could scout photos there for an upcoming feature. One quick search, and it was an obvious “yes.” Michael was tied up with work during the week, so I called Ana, a friend I met a couple of years back when we shared a room at a photography workshop in Istria. She drove down from Zagreb to meet me. Having Ana along, another photographer, made it even better. We lingered at spots where most would snap and move on, waiting for that perfect, money-shot light.

So, what makes Plitvice so special? This place is Croatia’s first national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site—a natural wonder carved out by water and time. Picture 16 lakes, tiered and spilling into each other through countless waterfalls, cascading through a limestone canyon. Elevated walkways and hiking trails crisscross the waters, while an electric boat ferries visitors between the 12 upper lakes and 4 lower lakes. The crown jewel? Veliki Slap, a 78-meter waterfall that roars down into a mossy emerald basin. People fly in from all corners of the globe just to see it in person.

There are two main entrances and multiple routes, each offering a different way to experience the park’s magic. We started at Entrance 2, following Route H, a 4-6 hour trek on foot. The plan was to reach Veliki Slap just as the sun dipped below the horizon, hoping for that final burst of evening light. We got there a lot faster than planned, but it worked out for the best, as I believe the shadow from the mountains would have made it too dark anyway.

Plitvice is tucked into a region known for its cool, forested landscapes, which was a complete escape from the balmy coastal heat. In just a couple of hours’ drive, I went from summer straight into fall. The air was brisk, the landscape was blazing with gold, orange, and crimson, and leaves floated on the water, creating natural, mirrored mosaics. Every bend in the trail seemed to unveil another hidden stream or fern-lined waterfall.

Ana headed back to Zagreb that evening, but I stayed behind at Hotel Plitvice, a hotel with retro charm, a rich history, and views of the park. For dinner, I wandered over to Restaurant Licka Kuca, a traditional Croatian spot centered around an open hearth, where they cook Peka the old-school way. The next morning, I hopped a bus back to Split, joining backpackers from Australia, the UK, and beyond—most of them still buzzing from their day in one of Europe’s true natural gems.